The Future Generation Of Energy Efficient Bulbs

Regular light bulbs (also known as incandescent lamps) convert rather less than twenty percent of the electricity they consume into actual light. This is because they quite literally burn a thin metal filament and as with all burning, most of the electricity is lost as heat. To suggest they’re not therefore particularly good at doing the one thing they’re supposed to do (i.e. turn electricity into light) is understating things somewhat.

As a small heater the average traditional light bulb is not bad, but unfortunately this heat is typically wasted someplace useless like the ceiling and if you’re actually trying to keep the temperature down then all they do is make your air conditioning work harder. Whichever way you cut it, you are paying good money for heat you almost certainly don’t want and getting a poor deal on light.

Energy saving or “low energy” light bulbs that are significantly more efficient have been available for quite a few years now. These usually take the form of compact fluorescent lamps (CFL) and are currently the most commonly available type of energy saving bulb for the domestic market. CFLs have not really caught on though, most probably because they’re oversized, take a considerable period of time to reach maximum brightness and are expensive by comparison with incandescent bulbs. Despite some improvements to make CFLs more discrete, attain maximum brightness in less time, and reduce the price but there is no hiding the fact that they have a poor image, which is not helped by the fact that they also contain toxic mercury vapour and are thus not easy to dispose of in an environmentally friendly way.

The new breed of energy saving light bulbs are based on light emitting diodes (LED). These are orders of magnitude more energy saving than present CFLs but until very recently have not been quite bright enough for general domestic lighting.

However LED bulbs recently appearing in the market are indeed viable as genuine alternatives, and in particular those designed as substitutes for GU10 and MR16 halogen lamps. But anyone contemplating trying this road should also know that many white LED bulbs, and in particular ones described as “cool” as distinct from “warm” white) may appear slightly blue which some folk find quite attractive but which generally do tend to stick out rather if blended with other kinds of lighting.

The main benefit of LED light bulbs is that they turn most of their input electricity into light and lose practically none as heat which in a nutshell means that they need a whole lot less energy to run them. About ten times less in fact, which is a huge cost saving since the cost of electric lighting is almost entirely down to the running cost. The cost of the light bulbs themselves is insignificant by comparison.

It’s also a fact that LED lights last twenty or more times longer and thus require replacing far less frequently. The benefits should be fairly plain then; LED lights not only save you financially, they also help the environment. The manufacturing process is more straightforward than for CFL bulbs and there are no awkward disposal headaches.

But the primary environmental impact is down to the fact that because they use much less electricity then less electricity has to be produced which in turn means less CO2 emissions.

If you would like to discover more then try this article about GU10 LED.

Infrared Heaters can save you money!

Infrared heat is a non conduction based heating source, meaning that it does not rely on flowing through and heating the air in order to heat a room. Instead, thanks to its shorter wave length; infrared heat penetrates solid objects and persons in a room to heat them directly. This works similarly to the sun’s rays: providing a faster and more efficient way to heat any room when compared to more traditional heating systems.

Infrared technology has a variety of uses in modern society, including area heating and heat therapy. There are three primary types of infrared, defined by wavelength: near-, mid-, and far-infrared. The CZ Infrared Heaters use far-infrared, or thermal infrared wavelengths to produce heat. Far-Infrared also happens to be the wavelength range which provides the most therapeutic effects for the body.

Far-infrared has a similar resonance with water so the water molecules in the body and in the air absorb the far-infrared waves directly and transform the radiant energy into thermal energy or heat.

Using conventional heaters not only uses more energy and costs more to run but they are also hot to the touch and can cause burns or even fires. Because conventional heaters do not heat the water molecules in the air they do not heat the air as quickly and do not penetrate the body until the room is heated. This makes conventional heaters use more energy than infrared heaters to heat an area.

Using an infrared heater gives you a radiant heat that makes you feel warm almost instantly. This is because it heats you, the room and the objects in the room at the speed of light and it does not depend on heating the air in the room first in order for you to feel the warmth. This makes CZ infrared heaters far more efficient than conventional heaters.

To help you understand this better let’s compare infrared heat to the sun’s rays. If you are in a cold room and then step into the sunlight penetrating through the window you feel the warmth of the sun almost instantly as it penetrates your body, even though the temperature of the room hasn’t changed.

However, the sun also emits harmful UV rays which can be damaging to the skin and eyes. Fortunately, with CZ Infrared heaters you will not have this problem. Due to the infrared wavelength, these heaters do not cause any harm to the body. In fact, infrared heat produced by CZ Infrared heaters may provide numerous therapeutic benefits for the body. Keep in mind that this may not be true for ALL infrared heating systems. Some may use wavelengths which can produce harmful radiation.

Another unique property of infrared heat that makes it so efficient and effective is that the heat is distributed evenly throughout the space and from floor to ceiling. The infrared waves heat the water molecules in the air directly and quickly, and because water molecules are more dense than air, the heat stays more evenly distributed throughout the room. Also, water and objects retain heat longer than air, so the heat is not lost as quickly through poor insulation, windows, doors and cracks. Dry heated air produced by conventional heaters rises to the ceiling, leaving the air cooler closer to the floor and does not disperse evenly, leaving cold pockets. The heated air is quickly dissipated through widows, doors, cracks and gaps, so a conventional heater has to work much harder to keep the room at a constant temperature than an infrared heater, making conventional heating methods less efficient and less effective.

And, unlike conventional heaters which dry the air–leading to cold pockets and quickly rising heat that escapes through cracks and gaps–infrared heat maintains the humidity in the air, allowing warmth to stay inside where it belongs. This makes CZ infrared heaters far more efficient in both time and money; as well as maintaining a healthier air quality throughout your home. In addition, CZ infrared heaters do not reach combustible temperatures or burn away the oxygen in the air. This keeps the oxygen levels stable, preventing oxygen deprivation symptoms like fatigue and lethargy.

Want to find out more about Infrared Heaters, then visit Roy LaBianco’s site on how to choose the best CZ Infrared Heater for your needs.

Learn What You Ought to Know About Energy Saving Light Bulbs

An enduring symbol for all round energy efficiency, energy saving light bulbs are at the fore of the steps that householders can take to do their bit. Using about 70% less electricity to produce the same amount of light as regular bulbs, it’s easy to see why there’s such a drive to increase the take up of these bulbs globally.

Indeed, with these bulbs and other lighting systems, it is widely accepted that the carbon released into the environment could be cut by as much as 16 billion tons over the next 25 years.

More good news too, lies in the fact that the bulbs are recyclable; something which is simply not possible with traditional bulbs types.

Of course, there are critics to energy saving bulbs. Many suggest they’re actually more damaging to the environment; arguing that heavier manufacturing processes outweigh any benefits. With a lifespan of 10 times that of traditional bulbs, any such deficits, (if indeed they exist at all), will be adequately countered.

Critics also state that the mercury used in the energy saving bulbs is a health risk. But again, with such low levels used, this is not a concern.

To compound such an argument; the total amount of mercury released into the atmosphere will actually be reduced, mindful that less electricity will need to be produced, a byproduct of which is mercury.

There is one area where public health could be affected; those suffering from photosensitivity could well have an adverse reaction. However, LED bulbs, also energy efficient, could be used here.

There used to be an argument that these energy saving bulbs could not work with dimmer facilities; which was a real bone of contention for many. However, this is a bridge that was crossed some time ago, so no longer remains a stumbling block for households. The price of such bulbs is higher, but the savings over the lifetime will outweigh this of course.

Choosing which bulbs to buy is fairly straight forward; particularly with the wealth of information and advice readily available online, in store and through state sponsored initiatives.

When looking at the lumen rating, (the figure given to indicate the amount of light given off), you should look for something equal to that given on the traditional types.

There is plenty of help out there to help you make the best choice but, as a rule, you need to by a bulb with a wattage which is about a fifth of the wattage of traditional types.

Matthe Kerridge is an expert in environmental sciences. If you would like more information about home improvements or are looking for a trusted home improvements service please visit Anglian Windows at http://www.anglianhome.co.uk

Spray On Foam Insulation, When Is It Used And Why?

Many have heard about spray on foam insulation but only a few knows t the specifics. I will explain what it is and how it works. There are different costs and benefits for this product, which is especially effective to use when installing attic installation.

How is it installed? Spray on foam insulation is foam liquid that when spayed into the area expands once dry the contractor will cut away excess and apply a thermal cup. The contractor doesn’t need to tear away old insulation or vapor wrap afterwards. This will save you time and money. This is one reason why it is ideal when installing attic insulation.

This insulation has many uses some of these include: roofing, walls, ceilings, basements and when installing attic insulation. It has also been used in restaurant freezers, walk in coolers and storage facilities. It’s been used for boats and boat docks. Airlines use it to strengthen airplane wings.

Another benefit is that it’s ecologically safe because it does not contain harmful chemicals. I also reduce the need for fossil fuel which also reduces global warming gasses.

Spray of foam insulation comes in user friendly bottles which allow contractors to get to tight areas that you couldn’t get to with the fiberglass insulation. SPF’s durability can be used in most any temperature climate successfully. This makes it ideal when installing attic insulation.

Spray on foam insulation is made from a polyurethane or urethane base. This makes it is safe to use and environmental friendly. It also reduces the need for fossil fuel which helps reduce global warming.

The cost for insulation ranges from $1.25 to $2.25 a square foot. It depends on the thickness of the wall and type used. Fiberglass may be cheaper initially, but when you add the cost for removing old material and winterizing the cost evens out

Spray on foam insulation is used in homes, restaurants, boats and planes. It’s handy when working in small area, For instance installing attic insulation. It’s simple to apply and you don’t have a big mess afterwards. Most importantly benefits out weigh the cost of spray on foam liquid insulation.

AtticInsulationGuide.com has the answers to all the questions that you were afraid to ask about reflective insulation! To make sure that you won’t settle for anything less than the full story on attic insulation, check out the site right away !

What are the Benefits of Expanding Foam Insulation?

There are four insulation types’ to consider when choosing insulation they are; batt and blanket, rigid board, loose fill and Expanding foam insulation. I will talk about each individually so you will have a better understanding when choosing insulation.

How is Expanding foam insulation applied? Contractors use special equipment to shoot either polyurethane or modified urethane liquid into the area. While drying it expands to fill every inch, once it’s dry, the excess is scraped off and a thermal barrier is applied

Next we will consider rigid board when we are choosing insulation. It’s made from fiberglass, polyurethane or polystyrene. It’s used in basement walls cathedral ceilings, flat roofs and building perimeters. Rigid board is not moisture or flame resistant. Bugs often burrow in this insulation. This product required to be covered by fire resistant paneling or dry wall. I wouldn’t consider rigid board when choosing insulation.

The third is loose fill insulation. Like expanding foam insulation. This insulation is blown into unfinished walls attic and ceilings to make a blanket effect. It is made from cellulose or fiberglass. Loose fill is treated for moisture and fire resistance.

The last is Expanding foam insulation. When choosing insulation I would have to say this is my favorite. Like loose fill it too is blown into walls. As it dries it expands to fit every crack. Once dried excess is cut away and a thermal barrier is applied.

When choosing insulation you should think about Batt and blanket. It’s made from fiberglass and rock wool. It’s installed between studs 16-24″ apart. It’s the cheapest, but proper installation is needed. After installing the house needs winterized further.

Expanding foam insulation has many uses from finished walls, ceilings, floors to boat docks to airplanes. Contractors especially like this insulation in tight enclosed places like electrical boxes, outlets, and window seals.

When choosing insulation you have to consider the good and bad qualities of each type of insulation. Although batt and blanket is the cheapest initially, proper insulation is required. Rigid foam boards is also inexpensive but unless treated can obtain moisture and harbor bugs. Both require further weatherization. Expanding foam insulation and loose fill both effectively cover the area without bugs, or retaining moisture and without further weatherization.

AtticInsulationGuide.com is the Internet’s premier resource for attic conversion, with facts and articles on topics such as attic conversion, and much more. Click the links above for more information !

categories: Attic Insulation,Insulate The Attic,Foam Insulation,Spray Insulation,Attic Improvement,House Insulation,Attic Conversion,Attic Ventilation,Roof Insulation,Roof Padding,Insulation,Home Improvement,Save Energy,Heating

Options For Low Energy Lighting

There can be few people left who remain unaware that conventional incandescent light bulbs are in the process of being totally eradicated. The driving force behind this is a worldwide agreement that targets reducing the amount of energy we all use and cutting down on heat and CO2 emissions. The net result is that we all need to get up to speed with a brave new world of low energy lighting.

The two main low energy lighting technologies are LED (Light Emitting Diode) versus CFL (Compact Fluorescent Lamp).

CFL bulbs have been around a while but suffer from a number of issues such as poor light quality, slow warm-up time, lack of dimming, bulky size, unable to switch on/off repeatedly, costly manufacturing process and toxic materials (they contain mercury vapour).

LED lights are not new either and have been found in all manner of devices for years, but only very recently have they started to encroach into mainstream domestic lighting. However, they’ve gained considerable ground and now out class CFL bulbs at every level while also presenting none of the problems.

So when it comes down it, as the saying goes, you pays your money and you makes your choice. But it’s worth bearing in mind that where electric lighting is concerned you get to pay twice - firstly for the bulbs and secondly when you run them.

Existing incandescent lighting employs a model whereby the bulbs are cheap and require frequent replacement but the running costs account for far and away the greatest portion of the total cost. CFL bulbs improve significantly on that but are frankly kicked into touch by LED’s that totally reverse this traditional model. LED light bulbs are comparatively expensive but they last 20-30 times longer and consume about 10 times less power.

Over time the savings from LED lights are huge and the payback period to recoup the initial purchase cost can be as little as one year, but more usually two to three at most. Taking into account also that the lighting industry itself is heavily backing LED and scaling back on CFL development and it’s not hard to see which way to jump here.

So what’s involved in switching over to LED? First get it firmly planted in your head that trying to replace your existing quite bright incandescent lights with those cheap 1 watt LED’s you see in some stores is a one way ticket to disappointment and wasted money. To replace say 40 - 60 watt incandescent bulbs will require 4 - 7 watts LED which is likely to cost up to 10 times more. But the procedure itself couldn’t be any simpler; just pull the incandescent bulb out and pop the LED in.

Probably the simplest way to begin is by replacing GU10 and/or MR16 halogen spots - these are beyond the scope of bulky CFL’s anyway. Staying with the halogen theme, then replace G4 capsules - these are commonly found in desk lamps and other fittings where space is at a premium (another failure for CFL then).

Once you’re done replacing halogen lamps, consider any T8 or T5 fluorescent tubes since these are also really easy to retrofit with LED which can produce as good or even better light quality (and without the characteristic flicker). And finally, even those traditional Edison screw or bayonet mount GLS light bulbs (as used in table lamps and hung from ceilings) can now be replaced with LED equivalent globes.

Find out more about low energy lighting from this article that takes a closer look at LED T8 lamps among many other things.

How To Easily Move To LED Lighting

Most people are by now aware that traditional incandescent light bulbs are fast becoming a thing of the past and that LED (rather than CFL) alternatives represent the future of low-energy, low-cost, low-environmental impact lighting. But where to begin?

One option might be to purchase LED equivalent bulbs for all the various lights you currently have but I would caution against that approach. Not only would it turn out to a rather expensive exercise, but you it also greatly increases your chances of having the end result turn out rather badly.

Getting to grips with LED lighting doesn’t happen overnight - this is a completely different technology to incandescent lighting and requires a bit of getting used to before you can get it just right for your own needs. But stick with it and the end result is superior quality lighting that also happens to save massively on electricity costs.

Sound advice then is to begin with an area that either uses a lot of lighting or has the lighting switched on a lot (or simply somewhere you would like to refurbish anyway). In this way, your chances of seeing a noticeable difference with respect to both light quality and running costs are greatly increased.

It’s important to get off to a good start in this way as it will encourage you to then take another step further towards the final goal of switching totally from incandescent to LED. For many, if not most, people then it is the kitchen that invariably matches these criteria - it typically has a lot of lights that get used a lot and refurbishing the lighting provides a relatively cheap makeover.

The typical modern kitchen often uses quite a number of halogen lamps, either mounted on tracks or recessed into the ceiling. These waste a phenomenal amount of electricity as heat and are simplicity itself to replace with retrofit LED equivalents. Just pull the halogen lamp out and push in an LED rated to produce the same level of light. For GU10 LED bulbs that’s it, but for MR16 low-voltage lamps you should also purchase an LED driver to replace the 12v transformers previously used.

The same idea (straightforward replacement) also applies to lights installed atop, underneath and inside wall cabinets. Alternatively, add some lighting to these areas if none already exists since LED strip and miniature spot lights are simple to fit, being both light in weight and flexible with respect to being cut or connected to suit any configuration. A common technique is to accent plinths and covings, or if fitted to a kick board to pick out the floor.

Three key considerations should be borne in mind with regard to LED lighting.

1. Quality counts. It’s only natural to count the cost but what really counts with LED lighting is quality and the two are mostly related. Cheap products may look like a bargain but they won’t perform as well or produce the savings you should expect (recall that incandescent bulbs cost little to buy but ultimately represent a terrible waste of money when you calculate the true “cost of ownership”). Look out for respected brands such as Sharp’s Zenigata or the Cree Evolux.

2. Cost. The real cost of lighting is the price of the bulb(s) plus the cost of the electricity. Over say 50,000 hours, a regular 50 watt halogen bulb will need to be replaced 25 times and cost 1,000 times the price of the bulb in electricity. An equivalent LED will require no replacement and cost much the same to run over all that time as it costs to buy. So over 50,000 hours the true cost of a $20 LED is likely to work out at (20 + 20) $40 and that of a $1 halogen at ((1 * 25) + (1 * 1000)) $1025.

3. Usage. LED lighting is most effective if you use multiple light sources of varying intensity and color ranges. Although very bright, they tend not to project light as far as incandescent lights do, so one of the most common ways to resolve these characteristics is to simply reflect the light off a nearby surface. This produces a diffuse light that fills the space and neatly kills two birds with one stone.

For further information check out these articles that examine the subjects of 12v LED bulbs and 12v lighting in more detail.

Don’t Attempt Attic Conversion Without Attic Insulation!

Going through an attic conversion is always a good time to do an attic insulation or to replace the old insulation that you may come across. If you do have an old insulation and you find that it is brittle or broken, you will know that the insulation was not a good one and wasn’t made to last.

If you do come across an old insulation in your attic, you will have to completely remove it from the walls and floor in your attic before fitting in a new insulation. All the flooring and walls will have to be removed to remove the old insulation and make sure you are fully protected before you do so, so that none of the fiber glass gets in contact with your face.

Make sure you know what type of insulation you want for your attic, how much it is going to cost you in total. By buying the most expensive insulation you can be sure that it will be the one that will last longer, be better quality and definitely keep your bills down in the future. Try not to panic about spending a lot because it will be worth it in the long run.

When buying your insulation you also have to keep in mind if you will be fitting it yourself as a DIY job or paying a professional to do the job for you, because there are different types of insulation, some for easy jobs that you can do and others that must be fitted by someone professional. Foam insulation is more expensive and of better quality, fitted by a professional.

Make sure you are fully prepared for the installation of your attic insulation and have the utilities you need to be able to do the job in a simple, economical and safe way, whatever way you choose to install your insulation. If the job is thoroughly thought out, done properly by a professional or yourself, you will have lower heating bills for many years!

AtticInsulationGuide.com gives you all the tips and info on attic insulation. Are you ready to cut your heating bills? Make sure that you know all there is to know about topics such as foam insulation by following the links above.

Gas Furnace Home Heating Tips

With so many people finding themselves in a little financial hardship, it is no wonder there is a big desire for ways to save money. Whether you have lost your job completely or you simply lost some hours, you want to look into ways to not just save money now, but how you can save money in the long run. You may already be doing things such as cutting down on your water usage and changing over to compact fluorescent bulbs, but there is still more you can do.

If you want to go through your entire house in search of ways to save money, you will want to take a look at the water heater and the furnace. Many people often wonder if they should keep their current gas furnace because it does still work or whether they should go out and get a new one? The newest state of the art furnaces generally cost a pretty penny, so is all of it really worth it in the long run?

Maybe you will want to look into keeping your gas furnace, even if it is a little on the older side. Even though it may run perfectly fine, it may need a little maintenance to make sure that it is running as good as it should be. Luckily for you, there are many things that you can do on your own to maintain it.

The first thing you will want to do is to replace your gas furnace filter with a new HEPA filter. You will need to begin changing the filters more often than you are used to because the advanced filters will be catching many more particles than the old filters did which means they will clog up faster. Another thing you should do is to walk through the house and look over all of the heating vents to make sure that they are completely free of debris.

Of course, you still want to explore other options, just to make sure that you are going with the route that is best for you. If you have an old electric furnace, you may want to replace it with a gas furnace, as natural gas is cheaper to heat with.

Without a doubt, the gas furnace heats a home more efficiently because of the heating element involved. The gas furnace takes a lot less time to heat up then electric ones. If you currently have a gas furnace but it is fifteen or twenty years old, you might want to explore the technological advances out there because the newer furnaces are much more efficient.

Do not worry if you cannot afford a new furnace, as there are many different government agencies out there that can help you obtain a new furnace. Some programs will cover the complete cost of the purchase price and the installation of the furnace while others will give you tax breaks on your income taxes. Simply contact your local health and human service office to see what programs they have available to you.

Some programs will even help you with an energy audit. This is something that everyone with older homes should be doing every year or two. This program will not only pay for the cost of the audit but it will cover any upgrades that are needed to properly winterize the home, such as the addition of insulation or weather stripping.

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Easy Attic Insulation With DIY Foam Insulation

Attic insulation can be very simple to do yourself if you know what you are doing. First of all know what type of insulation is best for your attic. Either slabs of insulation called batts or rolls of insulation. Loose fill is another type but it has to be installed by a professional as the process is more complicated that the others.

Insulation rolls are typically around 16 to 24 inches in length and can be easily cut with a utility knife to fit between the studs and joists in the attic. Insulation batts are slabs of about 8 feet in length and are normally sold in rectangular packs.

Before buying your insulation it is highly recommended to measure your attic and the buy a little bit more than needed just in case, unopened packs can always be sent back to the shop. By measuring before you can also see what type of insulation is better for your attic space. Buying a cover for your insulation will stop any damage or condensation to your insulation. Brown Kraft paper or fire-retardant foils are two very good choices.

Installing foam insulation is not a do it yourself type of job and must be completed by a professional in this area of work. The procedure is finished quickly and consists of mixing the foam, placing it into a specialized machine and spraying it into the holes around the uneven spaces in the attic, once it has been sprayed into the holes, the foam will extend through the walls and floor and harden. If done correctly, there will be no gaps or holes.

Make sure that you are fully protected if you are in the attic when the insulation is taking place. By having your face and body fully covered with the proper mask and clothes, you will be at less risk from any damage the foam may cause.

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